The
use of sandbags is a simple, but effective way to prevent or reduce
flood water damage. Properly filled and placed sandbags can act as a
barrier to divert moving water around, instead of through, buildings.
Sandbag construction does not guarantee a water-tight seal, but is
satisfactory for use in most situations. Sandbags are also used
successfully to prevent overtopping of streams with levees, and for
training current flows to specific areas.
Untied sandbags are recommended for most situations. Tied sandbags
should be used only for special situations when pre-filling and
stockpiling may be required, or for specific purposes such as filling
holes, holding objects in position, or to form barriers backed by
supportive planks. Tied sandbags are generally easier to handle and
stockpile. However, sandbag filling operations can generally be best
accomplished at or near the placement site, and tying of the bags would
be a waste of valuable time and effort. If the bags are to be
pre-filled at a distant location, due consideration must be given to
transportation vehicles and placement site access.
The most commonly used bags are untreated burlap sacks available at
feed or hardware stores. Empty bags can be stockpiled for emergency
use, and will be serviceable for several years, if properly stored.
Filled bags of earth material will deteriorate quickly.
Commercial plastic sandbags, made from polypropylene, are also
available from most bag suppliers. These will store for a long time
with minimum care, but are not biodegradable. Thus, they have to be
disposed of, or will remain around for a long time. Do not use garbage
bags, as they are too slick to stack. Do not use feed sacks, as they
are too large to handle. Use bags about 14-18" wide, and 30-36" deep.
A heavy bodied or sandy soil is most desirable for filling sandbags,
but any usable material at or near the site has definite advantages.
Coarse sand could leak out through the weave in the bag. To prevent
this, double bag the material. Gravelly or rocky soils are generally
poor choices because of their permeability.
Sandbag barriers can easily be constructed by two people, as most
individuals have the physical capability to carry or drag a sandbag
weighing approximately 30 pounds.
How
to fill a sandbag
Filling
sandbags is a two-person operation. Both people should be wearing
gloves to protect their hands. One member of the team should place the
empty bag between or slightly in front of widespread feet with arms
extended. The throat of the bag is folded to form a collar, and held
with the hands in a position that will enable the other team member to
empty a rounded shovel full of material into the open end. The person
holding the sack should be standing with knees slightly flexed, and
head and face as far away from the shovel as possible.
The shoveler should carefully release the rounded shovel full of soil
into the throat of the bag. Haste in this operation can result in undue
spillage and added work. The use of safety goggles and gloves is
desirable, and sometimes necessary.
Bags should be filled between one-third (1/3) to one-half (1/2) of
their capacity. This keeps the bag from getting too heavy, and permits
the bags to be stacked with a good seal.
For large scale operations, filling sandbags can be expedited by using
bag-holding racks, metal funnels, and power loading equipment. However,
the special equipment required is not always available during an
emergency.
Sandbag
placement
Remove any debris from the area where the bags
are to be placed.
Fold the open end of the unfilled portion of the bag to form a
triangle. If tied bags are used, flatten or flare the tied end.
Place the partially filled bags lengthwise and parallel to the
direction of flow, with the open end facing against the water flow.
Tuck the flaps under, keeping the unfilled portion under the weight of
the sack.
Place succeeding bags on top, offsetting by one-half (1/2) filled
length of the previous bag, and stamp into place to eliminate voids,
and form a tight seal.
Stagger the joint connections when multiple layers are necessary. For
unsupported layers over three (3) courses high, use the pyramid
placement method.
Pyramid
Placement Method
The pyramid placement is used to increase the
height of sandbag protection.
Place the sandbags to form a pyramid by alternating header courses
(bags placed crosswise) and stretcher courses (bags placed lengthwise)
Stamp each bag in place, overlap sacks, maintain
staggered joint placement, and tuck in any loose ends.
Image - Birds-eye view of sandbag pyramid placement method. Stagger the
joints so that there re no straight lines across the base.
Ringing
boils
A
boil is a condition where water is flowing through or under an earth
structure (such as a levee) that is retaining water. Free flowing water
wants to move to lower elevations. If a levee is stopping floodwaters,
the water may be able to find weak points to enter. This action is
called "piping". If the water finds a large enough path, the flow will
become visible, and is a serious threat to the integrity of the levee.
Most boils occur in sand, silt, or some combination.
A boil is found on the landward side of the levee, or in the ground
past the levee toe (the exact distance varies with local conditions).
Possible boil sites can be identified by free standing or flowing water
(other than culverts, pumps, etc). A boil can be found only by close
inspection. A prime indicator is water bubbling (or "boiling"), much
like a natural spring. Another is obvious water movement in what
appears to be standing water.
Carefully examine the water for movement. Boils will have an obvious
exit (such as a rodent hole), but the water may be cloudy from
siltation, or the hole very small. If there is any movement in the
water, carefully approach the site, disturbing the water as little as
possible. Let the water settle, and look at the suspected site. If you
see the hole, examine it carefully. If the water flow is clear, there
are no problems as yet. If there is no distinct hole, the water flow is
not a threat. Monitor the site regularly for changes, and take no other
actions.
A dirty water flow indicates that the soil is being eroded by the
water, and that could mean failure of the levee. A boil ring is the
best solution. The idea is to reduce the water flow until the water is
flowing clear, but not to stop the water flow. This acts as a relief
valve for the water pressure; the water continues to flow, but is not
eroding the material. If the water flow is stopped, the pressure will
remain, and another boil will form.
Ring
the boil with sandbags, with the first bags back 1-2 feet from the
boil. More, if the soil is unstable. Build the first layer in a circle,
2-4 bags across, and then build up, bringing each layer in. If
possible, keep the interior face straight. Build the ring wall with the
means for water to flow out, leaving a gap in the wall, or using pipes.
Adjust the flows until the water slows, and becomes clear. Monitor the
ring wall constantly. Raise or lower the height of the wall as
necessary, maintaining a slow, clear flow.
The
height should be only enough to create enough head to slow flow so that
no more material is displaced, and the water runs clear.
Notes:
Do not sack a boil which does not put out material.
The entire base should be cleared of debris and scarified.
Tie into the levee if the boil is near a toe.
< the of all between earth loose>
All joints must be staggered.
Be sure to clear the sand discharge.
Never attempt to completely stop the flow through a boil.